If cabernet franc from New York hasn’t been on your radar (or table), a group of talented New York wineries want to change that: Enter Cab Franc Forward, a new, energetic grassroots collective of Empire State wine producers gunning to make New York-centric versions of the red grape a fan favorite — which, judging by the crowd enthusiasm for the event, seems poised to take root.
Last week’s Cab Franc Forward tasting of N.Y. wines attracted over 500 curious sippers. (Photo credit: Max Flatow)
In early February, the organization, pioneered by Gabriella Macari of Macari Vineyards and Max Rohn of Wölffer Estate Vineyard, presented their first ever public tasting of cabernet franc grown and produced in New York. Held at Manhattan’s Prince George Ballroom, the day-long event attracted over 500 wine industry professionals and consumers to sample cabernet franc from 35 wineries across Long Island, the Hudson River Valley and the Finger Lakes.
“I think cab franc can be that wine that makes New Yorkers confident to say, hey, I’m in New York, I want to share [a New York wine] with my friends! Or if I’m a visitor from overseas, I want to taste the New York cab franc,” says Roman Roth of Wölffer Estate Vineyard, one of the founding members of the organization. “All of all, we want to give confidence and give pride to New Yorkers, and everybody seems to be on board and excited about it.”
Wine has been made in New York since the 17th century, with commercial production firing up early 1800s, but it’s only been in recent decades that New York Wines began to lean into regional personalities marked by their individual AVAs (American Viticultural Areas).
While in the past, Long Island has set its cap to merlot, the Finger Lakes to riesling and, along with the Hudson River Valley, hybrid grapes, cabernet franc is the one grape every region in New York can grow, and grow well.
“If every restauranteur and chef and sommelier sees that Florence [Fabricant from the New York Times] write something about cabernet franc in New York State, their buyers are going to be much more tuned into wanting to serve New York State wines and New York State cab franc,” says Anthony Martignietti referring to the attendance and acknowledgement of the Gray Lady’s famed food and wine writer. Martignietti, a New York restaurateur who has long been committed to selling New York wines on his lists, is also the owner of the soon-to-open Old Mill Inn and of the new Long Island winery Old Sound Vineyard, which made its public debut at the Cab Franc Forward event.
Long Island producers, including Wölffer’s Roman Roth, Anthony Martinieetti of Old Sound Vineyard, Marin Brennan of Bedell, Miguel Martin of McCall, Amy Opisso of Bridge Lane, Chiara Anderson Edmands and John Leo of Onabay, Kareem Massoud of Paumanok and others put their best cab franc forward at the Feb. 4 tasting. (Photo credit: Amy Zavatto)
The event, which started at 11 a.m. for media and trade, and continued into the evening with a special consumer tasting, also offered professionals the chance to sit in on a seminar and special tasting of New York cabernet franc led by award winning sommelier Yannick Benjamin, and a panel that included master sommelier Josh Nadel, JF Restaurants beverage director and partner Amy Racine and Jhonel Faelnar, beverage director for Ataboy, Atomix and Naro in Manhattan.
The thing to note about that panel: support from restaurateurs and sommeliers is a key component in getting the word out beyond tasting rooms — something that has long been lacking between the hospitality industry and New York wine, but as the quality of the wines becomes undeniable, this disconnect appears to be slowly but surely changing.
“We’re all hoping to create lasting change — imagine every restaurant and wine store in New York State proudly featuring NY wines,” says Macari. “This is just the beginning of a movement to inspire all New Yorkers to discover, enjoy, and share the exceptional wines in their backyard. We’re looking forward to more tastings, gatherings, celebrations, and something I’m particularly interested in, more ways to learn.”
Part and parcel to that is the work of Cab Franc Forward founding group, which includes Long Island producers Macari, Wölffer, Paumanok and Old Sound Vineyard; from the Finger Lakes Hermann J. Weimer Vineyard and Boundary Breaks; and from the Hudson Valley Fjord and Milea Estate Vineyard, all of whom have banded together to raise the bar and awareness on the cabernet franc’s affinity for New York’s varied soils and climate.
“It’s building those relationships and doing things like this – this is how momentum builds. For hundreds of years in wine it’s independent producers coming together to focus on quality as a group, damn the torpedoes!” says Nadel. “The product is fantastic. When was the last time you looked at a region or a varietal and 75% of the wines you’re looking at are under 13% alcohol and largely unadulterated by new oak? That’s what people want and that’s the future of wine when it comes to delicious[ness] and freshness and affordability.”
