At Ellen’s on Front, familiar American dishes get a bold reimagining
THE GIST Opened in 2019, Ellen’s on Front is led by award-winning chef Jennie Werts, who spun the seasonal Drossos Snack Bar & Mini Golf into a 49-seat dining destination. Werts, who studied at the French Culinary Institute, spent a decade honing her skills in Manhattan before bringing her playful global flavors to Greenport. It’s a family affair: Jennie runs the kitchen while brother Andrew organizes events and “schmoozes with people on weekends,” Jennie says with a laugh. Their mom, Ellen, is the restaurant’s namesake and front-of-house guest star.
THE VIBE The bright and airy dining room, with its tall ceilings, large windows and soft shades of green, is dotted with Scandinavian-style wood chairs and features a long green banquette along the back wall. Above the bar, bookshelves are filled with family photos, beloved books and even Ellen’s father’s old baseball glove. Nestled between the shelves is the centerpiece of the space: a large portrait of Ellen, elegantly posed for her sweet sixteen, sporting the hairstyle that inspired the restaurant’s logo: her signature ‘60s bubble flip.
THE FOOD Latin and Asian ingredients blend with classic American fare, balancing adventure and nostalgia. There are also creative libations made from Matchbook Distilling Co. spirits and a list of locally sourced beer and wines. While many of the main offerings remain consistent, Ellen’s on Front takes a seasonal approach to salads, meats and seafood, with occasional specials. A weekly burger and beer combo is offered for $18 every Friday at the bar (and Thursdays during the summer).
Crispy Artichoke Hearts: In this dish, tender artichoke hearts are lightly battered and fried, then paired with a bright, house-made yuzu-herb aioli, pickled fresno peppers for a touch of heat, and chewy, crunchy fried lemon slices.
Jewsian Fusion Reuben Buns: After years of experimenting with various iterations of this cultural mashup for local pop-ups, this textural masterpiece features 10-day brined brisket-cut corned beef that’s slow-roasted for five hours. Thick slabs of meat are piled onto soft, pillowy bao buns and topped with kimchi-laced Russian dressing and fresh cucumbers.
Grilled Marinated Spareribs: A gentle tug with a fork is all it takes for these ribs to fall off the bone. They’re marinated, braised, fried and then grilled until slightly charred, glazed in a rich red-miso barbecue sauce, and finished with vinegary Sichuan cucumber slaw and sesame seeds
that add a bit of crunch and spice.
Pea Leaves & Crispy Quinoa: Tender and delicate, these vine-like greens are combined with pea leaves, tossed with grilled corn and crunchy quinoa, then topped with fresh avocado slices, watermelon radish and a house-made lemon vinaigrette that boasts a subtle creaminess with its pureed blend of roasted garlic, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, honey and oil.
Korean Fried Rice: This shareable portion of classic fried rice — available with chicken, veggies or duck — gets a boost from gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste) and gochugaru (chili powder and flakes) mixed into soy sauce, giving the rice its signature red hue and a slight kick.
Sweet Tea-Brined Fried Chicken: A staple in the restaurant since day one, the sweet tea-brined bird is par-cooked to lock in its juices, fried to order, then lightly drizzled with house-made hot sauce honey butter before it’s sprinkled with Thai basil.
Ellen’s on Front
38 Front St., Greenport
631-333-2743
@ellensonfront
Hours:
Sunday to Tuesday
Lunch: noon to 3 p.m.
Dinner: 5 to 8 p.m.
Thursday
Dinner: 5 to 8 p.m.
Friday & Saturday
Lunch: noon to 3 p.m.
Dinner: 5 to 9 p.m.
