New York Times wine writer Eric Asimov called Southold Farm + Cellar’s wines some of the region’s most exciting and creative offerings in a recent piece that also examines the vineyard’s owners’ decision to move the operation to Texas.
In March, the Southold Town Zoning Board of Appeals denied SFC owners Regan and Carey Meador a variance that would have allowed them to build a production facility on the property. Asimov called the local zoning laws “arcane” and “confusing”and highlights some of the concessions the Meadors offered the town (no limos, tastings by appointments, etc.) After the denial, the Meadors announced they would move the operation and their inventory to Texas, Mr. Meador’s home state.
The town’s inability to come to a resolution with the Meadors — who have put out some of the highest rated wines the region has ever seen — at the same time the Long Island Wine Council is branding the region as a premiere wine destination has been a bit baffling for those who follow the local industry.
That the Paper of Record has taken note of this surprising contradiction must surely be a tiny bit of validation for the Meadors and their supporters.
Asimov visited Southold Farm + Cellar in July and sampled, among others, its cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot and teroldego. He heaps the praise on the Old North Road vineyard, both for its use of uncommon North Fork grapes and the liveliness of its wines.
“Despite the hardships, the wines, made with indigenous yeasts and minimal amounts of the preservative sulfur dioxide, have been beautiful,” he wrote. “A 2014 sauvignon blanc was textured and alive in the glass, with great depth and minerality that called to mind the Loire Valley. A 2014 blend of cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot was deliciously fresh, while a 2015 teroldego, still aging in a tank, was bright and vivacious.”
If that all sounds good to you, you can still get them at Chef Hayden’s Farmers Market at the North Fork Table and Inn on Friday mornings.