There is a beautiful rhythm to the change of seasons here on Long Island, and for those who commute out to the forks — like chef Francis Derby driving from his hometown of Bellport out to Greenport—that rhythm is evident in the fields. Derby, the culinary director at The Halyard at Sound View, is someone who truly understands the language of those farms, bringing his ingredient-driven approach and deep respect for seasonal, local sourcing to the iconic waterfront restaurant.`
A Long Island native, Derby’s passion for food began early, rooted in his childhood spending time on his grandfather’s duck farm in Patchogue and later working his way through local kitchens. His career took him to Manhattan to work at esteemed places like WD-50, Momofuku Ssäm Bar and The State Room in Patchogue, and included a formative six-month stage at the world-renowned Mugaritz in Spain.
Now back home, his cooking philosophy is simple, yet profound. “If there was a cooking philosophy,” Derby notes, “it’s really just letting the farms around us tell us what’s on the menu.” That commitment is evident in his silken, custardy and intensely flavored Basque cheesecake made with local cheese pumpkin.
The inspiration for this dessert traces back to Derby’s time in Spain, where he experienced the famous burnt-crust delicacy firsthand, an unforgettable taste experience that he’s been chasing ever since.
Derby’s daily commute to the North Fork dictates the seasonal additions. “For me, a lot of what happens on the menu here is influenced by my drive through the North Fork,” he says, “and right now there are just tons of pumpkins.”
The process for the dessert is a full commitment to the harvest, utilizing local cheese pumpkins selected from farms like Krupski and Wickham Farms. Derby insists this commitment is key to the flavor.
“If we’re going to offer a pumpkin cheesecake, we should make ours using locally grown pumpkins,” he says. “That process is really what makes our pumpkin cheesecake specific because of the farms that the pumpkins are coming from.”
Derby notes that the way they handle the purée distinguishes this cheesecake from others. Instead of simply draining the moisture, they actively cook it out to concentrate the flavor. “We’ve tried hanging it in cheesecloth, but I find that when we cook the water out of it, we’re almost reducing the purée at that point, and you’re getting something a little more intensely flavored, and that water won’t throw off the balance of your finished product.”
Chef Francis Darby’s pumpkin Basque cheesecake, which will be on The Halyard’s regular menu through the winter. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
This resulting intensity gives the dessert its deep, complex flavor, which has made it a favorite at The Halyard. The pumpkin Basque cheesecake is currently on the regular menu (“it’ll run right through winter,” he notes) and will be a dessert offering on the upcoming Thanksgiving buffet. For serving, a simple topping like classic whipped cream is always appropriate, but Derby suggests something richer. “For us, we do a little bit of Amaro caramel, but any version of caramel — plain caramel, whiskey caramel — I think, is a nice accent to it.”
TIPS FOR THE HOME COOK
Derby’s advice is rooted in precision, which is key for baking desserts as meticulous as this cheesecake:
Know Your Oven Temperature Above all, invest in an oven thermometer. Derby advises, you need to ensure that 425°F is actually 425°F. “I would say, above all things you should have in your kitchen, it would be an oven thermometer in your oven. I know my home oven is about 30 degrees too hot; it’s good to know that. It’s going to help you a lot, especially with these more meticulous baking tasks.”
Reduce the Purée Do not skip the critical step of reducing your homemade pumpkin purée. By cooking out the water, you concentrate the flavor and ensure that excess moisture will not disrupt the careful balance of the finished product.
Let the Farms Steer This applies to any seasonal dessert. Derby’s philosophy is to “let the farms around us tell us what’s on the menu.” By using high-quality, local cheese pumpkins you elevate the flavor of the entire dish.
Spice It Up For even more autumnal flavor, add a pinch of nutmeg, allspice or ginger to the cheesecake batter.
Make Ahead This cheesecake version keeps well for up to 4 days refrigerated.
The process for the dessert is a full commitment to the harvest, utilizing local cheese pumpkins selected from farms like Krupski and Wickham Farms. Derby insists this commitment is key to the flavor. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
Pumpkin Basque Cheesecake
PREP TIME 1 hour
COOK TIME 26 minutes
SERVES 8 – 10
FOR THE PUMPKIN PURÉE
1 large cheese pumpkin, sugar pumpkin or other seasonal squash
1/8 cup neutral oil (like canola or vegetable) or coconut oil
2 tbsp ground cinnamon
2 tbsp granulated sugar
1 tbsp kosher salt
FOR CHEESECAKE
2 cups full-fat cream cheese, softened to room temperature (about 16 oz)
2 1/2 cups prepared pumpkin purée
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
10 large egg yolks
1 cup crème fraîche (or full-fat sour cream)
1/2 tsp kosher salt
TO PREPARE THE PUMPKIN PURÉE
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a large sheet tray with parchment paper.
2. Cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out and discard the seeds, and cut the halves into roughly 3-inch thick wedges.
3. In a bowl, rub the pumpkin wedges with the neutral oil, cinnamon, sugar and salt until evenly coated.
4. Roast the pumpkin for 45 minutes, or until the flesh is tender when pierced with a fork.
5. Scoop the roasted flesh into a food processor and blend until completely smooth. For the best texture, pass the purée through a fine-mesh sieve.
6. Transfer the purée to a pan over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently for about 10 minutes until the purée begins to thicken visibly. This step removes excess water and concentrates the flavor, preventing a watery cheesecake.
TO PREPARE CHEESECAKE
1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Take a 9-inch springform pan and generously line it with parchment paper, letting the paper wrinkle and stand up high above the sides of the pan (this creates the signature burnt crust).
2. In a food processor or a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the softened cream cheese, the reduced pumpkin purée, sugar, egg yolks, crème fraîche and salt.
3. Blend until the mixture is completely smooth and lump-free. Do not over-mix, but ensure all ingredients are incorporated.
4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 26 minutes, until the top is deeply golden brown (or even black in spots) and puffed, but still shows a gentle “jiggle” in the center when shaken lightly.
5. Let the cheesecake rest at room temperature for about 45 minutes before moving it to the refrigerator.
6. Refrigerate until fully set (at least 4 hours, ideally overnight). Slice the cheesecake using a warm, dry knife for the cleanest cuts. The interior should be silky and custardy, contrasting with the caramelized top.
