Cook This Now! George Hirsch’s farmstand corn chowder

The history of chowder on the East End is as rich as the dish itself, evolving from the French fishing stews called chaudière. The tradition was adapted by early American settlers, who combined it with native ingredients like corn, a crucial crop for the Montaukett and other Indigenous communities. For centuries, this simple, hearty meal provided sustenance for local farmers and fishermen. One of the most famous local versions is “Bonac” chowder, a recipe passed down through generations of the isolated fishing community in Springs. 

This version is a favorite of East End resident, chef and public television host George Hirsch, who has been a culinary fixture for over 25 years. He tells us this recipe is one of his most requested and is about harnessing the simple “goodness from the earth,” especially with “our candy-sweet corn and famous Long Island East End Yukon potatoes.” He adds that the rich, well-drained soil here makes for some of the best produce in the world. 

It’s a great dish to embrace “second summer” and a perfect easy meal for a casual late-afternoon gathering outside when the weather starts to turn: a warm and comforting bowl to enjoy as the sun begins to set. 

 TIPS FOR THE HOME COOK

• Sourcing is key: Hirsch emphasizes that the best chowder starts with the best corn. He recommends looking for ears with dark-colored, moist-feeling silk and tightly wrapped husks around the cob.
• Support local North Fork farmstands: For the best sweet corn, head to Harbes Family Farm (715 Sound Ave., Mattituck), famous for selling their homegrown harvest directly. You can also find exceptional local ears and seasonal produce at Wowak Farms (17905 Main Road, Mattituck) or the historic, family-owned Latham Farms (21920 Main Road, Orient).
• The power of pancetta: Hirsch notes that adding savory pancetta is a great way to give this chowder its richness and make it a hearty meal.
• Northforker corn prep tip: To slice corn kernels mess-free, place a small bowl upside down inside a larger bowl. The inverted bowl creates a stable platform for the ear, and the outer bowl catches all the kernels as you slice them off.

Photo credit: Doug Young

George Hirsch’s farmstand corn chowder 

PREP TIME: 5 minutes

COOK TIME: 1 hour

SERVES 4 

1 tbsp olive oil 

4 tbsp pancetta or bacon, chopped 

3/4 cup sweet onion, chopped 

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 

1/2 cup carrots, peeled and chopped 

1/2 cup celery, chopped 

2 tbsp all-purpose flour 

4 cups vegetable or chicken broth 

2 cups fresh corn kernels 

1 cup Yukon Gold potatoes, well-scrubbed and chopped into 1/4-inch pieces 

1 bay leaf 

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped 

1/2 tsp hot sauce 

1/2 cup half-and-half

pinch of sea salt

freshly ground pepper 

1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

1. In a large soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or bacon and cook until lightly browned. Add the onion and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it becomes translucent. Stir in the chopped garlic during the last 2 minutes, being careful not to let it burn.

2. Add the chopped carrots and celery to the pot and continue to cook for another three to four minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and cook for two minutes, stirring constantly. Slowly pour in the chicken or vegetable broth, whisking to prevent any lumps from forming.

4. Bring the soup to a boil, then add the corn, potatoes, thyme, hot sauce and bay leaf. Reduce the heat and let the soup simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until all the vegetables are tender.

5. Just before serving, gently warm the half-and-half in a separate small pan and stir it into the chowder. Season to taste with sea salt and black pepper, then top with fresh chopped parsley.