THE WINERY: Bedell Cellars
THE WINEMAKER: Rich Olsen-Harbich
THE WINE: 2021 Chardonnay, 12% abv
THE PRICE: $24
THE GRAPES: 100% chardonnay
Is chardonnay having a moment? We think it is.
Although really: When is it not having a moment? This classic, noble grape variety is the source of some of the most sought-after wines in the world. But while it may seem globally ubiquitous to some, it’s also a grape that can gorgeously cleave to its climate and terroir.
“I like the fact that our chardonnay exhibits the qualities of our cool maritime climate,” says Rich Olsen-Harbich, the venerable winemaker at Bedell Cellars since 2000. “We have lower alcohol levels and higher levels of natural acidity, which creates a completely different type of wine than the ones grown from other New World regions. Our chardonnays have more in common with the wines of Chablis and Alsace than Napa and Sonoma.” Indeed, Bedell’s versions tend to be clean and crisp, with Olsen-Harbich leaning toward a more deft approach with oak in the wine’s maturation. “If I do use any, it’s older barrels that retain fruit flavors and aromas.”
What’s in your glass: Estate-grown via certified sustainable and regenerative practices, the grapes here are all Dijon clones 76 and 95 which, Olsen-Harbich says, “produce smaller clusters and lower yields, creating beautiful, delicate flavors.” It’s hand harvested and fermented with wild yeast, with only a partial malolactic fermentation, which “adds a little more complexity while retaining acid.”
Pairs with: Local fish like fluke and striped bass, as well as oysters and other shellfish, but it’s also refreshing and delicious to drink on its own.
To hold or not to hold: Olsen-Harbich has found that chardonnay grown here tends to only get better in the initial five years beyond its vintage, knitting and melding its lovely flavors and texture. Some go even longer. “2021 was a typical vintage for the North Fork, not as warm as 2020 or 2022 — it’s bright and very transparent, with clear saline minerality, which I love to see in all our wines. I think the 2021 should drink nicely for a few more years.”
