Cook This Now: Stephanie Villani’s Beer-Battered Cod

Is that long-dreamed-of trek to the Emerald Isle not part of your March or St. Patrick’s Day plans, dearie? That’s okay. An ocean might separate Ireland and Long Island by a few thousand miles, but that ocean also allows them to share a similar fish-nabbing culture that translates to some pretty delicious armchair travel right at your dining table. 

“There were so many good seafood recipes floating around when I used to sell fish at the Greenmarkets in NYC that I wanted to collect them all and write them down for people,” says Stephanie Villani, author of “The Fisherman’s Wife: Sustainable Recipes and Salty Stories.” Stephanie, who also contributes to this publication, ran Blue Moon Fish with her now-retired (but still fishing) commercial fisherman husband, Capt. Alex Villani, for over 30 years. Her 2017 tome is an ode to those years spent gleaning deep-sea knowledge and offers guidance on preparing almost everything that swims off our shores through the tales of her Mattituck fishing family.  

“People are intimidated by cooking fish,” explains Stephanie, whose renowned dock-to-Greenmarket fish stand was a favorite among Greenmarket devotees and acclaimed chefs like Marc Forgione, all who knew freshly caught fish when they saw it. “The book includes recipes we cook for ourselves, and some tips we learned at the fish stand from well-known chefs and regular customers. If you have good fish, you don’t need to do much to it. Simple is the best way to cook it.”

This beer-battered recipe calls for cod, the most traditional choice, because of its mild flavor and tender texture. “Culturally and historically, cod is the most important fish in the North Atlantic region,” writes Stephanie in her book. “It has been caught and traded since the time of the Vikings; whole economies of towns and cities relied on catching cod.” 

When Atlantic cod populations collapsed in the early 1990s, the Department of Fisheries and Oceans implemented strict regulations to help the species rebound. “We used to sell it at the fish stand when it was in season from October to March,” recounts Alex (who “grew up on cod and whiting”). “There’s a handful still around, but it’s not a targeted species [for fishing].” 

Luckily, there are some just-as-good second choices to substitute when craving a crisp wedge of battered fish.

“Haddock is very similar to codfish,” says the fisherman’s wife. “Ling is also a member of the cod family and is known for its firm, white flesh and sweet flavor.” 

When choosing a beer for the batter, apply the same rule as wine: if you wouldn’t drink it, you shouldn’t cook with it. Harbor Ale from Greenport Harbor Brewing Co. is beer batter-friendly, brewed with American hops and wheat malt with notes of lemon zest. “The beer batter is so good with the fish,” implores Stephanie. “It brings a bit of a sour taste, but delicious.”

The best part is that “some of it goes in the batter, and some goes in your glass,” laughs Alex.

Serve this family-style dish on a platter with crisp fries, lemon wedges, tartar sauce and malt vinegar. Entertaining on St. Patrick’s Day? Have your guests get their “Dublin” on by wrapping their fish and chips in brown craft paper like it’s done in Ireland, grabbing to-go utensils, and enjoying it all while on a brisk outdoor trek by the Sound! Be prepared to answer, “Where’d you get that?” if you run into a hungry passerby.

“The Fisherman’s Wife” is available at Southold Fish Market and Burton’s Books in Greenport.