Italian-Americans love their Christmas Eve fish tradition. The cultural culinary mainstay actually has roots in eating a non-red-meat meal the night before Christmas, as imposed by the Roman Catholic church (“mangiare di magro”), loosely translated to eating lean — which, of course, is not at all what happens. But fish traditions on the Eve of the Christian holiday aren’t sequestered to the boot-shaped country. Fishing villages in France, Austria, Germany and Croatia embrace fish for the holiday, as do those in Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia and Hungary. And if you grew up on the East End, you should, too. The abundance of fresh local fish here is a treasure worth celebrating (and don’t forget your oysters — those hardworking little crustaceans that help keep your water clean by filtering up to 50 gallons of seawater a day!).
Remember: if you’re cooking for a crew, ordering ahead of time is always a good idea, and patience (as well as tipping — especially if you’re asking for your catch to be cleaned and fileted) when picking up is appreciated. Hit up these local fishmongers for an ocean of just-caught options for your holiday table.
Alice’s Fish Market
222 Atlantic Ave., Greenport, 631-477-8485
For over 30 years, little Alice’s Fish Market has sat on a quiet perch of Atlantic Avenue, right on the water in Greenport — and that should pretty much tell you all you need to know. Run by Nate Phillips, Alice’s winter hours are Thursday to Sunday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Braun Seafood Co.
30840 Main Road, Cutchogue, 631-734-6700
Fisherman George Braun founded this family-owned fish business in 1928, and over the years it’s grown into a renowned wholesale distributor and retail shop run by third-generation owner Ken Homan. While the fish market here is ever-plentiful, make sure you get your order in no later than the weekend prior to Christmas Eve — and for extra-special items, let them know no later than the morning of Dec. 19. Remember: if there’s something local you’re looking for, bad weather plays a role — if the fishers can’t get out to fish, have a backup item in mind. The fish market is open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, and 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Buoy One
1175 West Main St., Riverhead, 631-208-9737
This combo restaurant and fish market in Riverhead has been owned by brother and sister Rob Pollifone and Lorraine Girard for over 20 years. While they don’t require you to get orders in ahead of the holiday, they do request a heads-up for special orders. Want two-pound lobsters for your feast? Give ‘em two days’ notice. Want a mountain of cleaned shrimp or a particular filet with the skin on? A day’s notice is appreciated! Open daily, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Clarks Island Seafood
20 South Cartwright Road, Shelter Island, 631-903-0931
Commercial bayman and fisherman Sawyer Clark comes from a long line of seafaring folks on Shelter Island, and likely had his sea legs before most kids utter their first word. He only sells what he catches, fresh and ready to go from a roadside cooler on the honor system. He’ll even smoke some of it for you, too. For the holidays, he’s happy to take orders via phone, email ([email protected]) and even Instagram or Facebook messenger. And if you have holiday hopes of Peconic Bay scallops, definitely get your order in ahead of time.
Commander Cody’s Fish Shoppe
41 Smith St., Shelter Island, 631-749-1851
Fisherman Jimmy Hayward’s fish market and restaurant is an island institution. If you hear the words “Take it light!” from the octogenarian owner on your way out, you know you’re welcome back anytime. The fish market is open every day except Wednesday from 10:30 a.m. until 8 p.m. (although it’s never a bad idea to call and check), and you can get all your holiday swimmy goodies here. “The sooner the better is always our motto,” says manager Aiden Poleshuk if you want something like Jimmy’s dreamy smoked fish or lobsters for a crew, but three days’ notice ought to cover it for anything special.
The Little Fish Shop
833 Middle Road, Riverhead, 631-236-8770
Proprietor Phil Karlin has been fishing for over 50 years, but his sweet little fish shop has sold the fruits of his seafaring labor for around a decade, and it’s where you’ll find his son Wade more often than not minding the store. They’ll open for order pick-up on Christmas Eve with all the usual fresh-caught suspects — porgy, flounder, cod, swordfish, tuna — and are happy to take orders ahead of time. If you want his grandson to prepare something particular for you on the smoker, give ‘em a week’s notice.
North Fork Seafood
87 N. Ferry Road, Shelter Island, 631-905-1123
Jermain Owens is back on Shelter Island, and so is the little fish market helmed for decades by the Ryder family a stone’s throw from the IGA. Owens specializes in things like sushi-grade tuna and other fresh catches, but for the holiday give him a little warning and he can probably pull in whatever seasonal options are your heart’s desire. Open daily, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Southold Fish Market
64755 Route 25, Southold, 631-765-3200
Commercial fisherman Charlie Manwaring’s fish market and restaurant is a local favorite, and the Christmas holiday is a busy time at the tidy spot on Main Road. They start taking Christmas Eve orders two weeks prior to the holiday for fresh eel, cleaned calamari and shrimp, bacala and, of course, their super popular stuffies (yum). They’re open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. And while they’ll be open Christmas Eve (a Tuesday this year), note the hours are 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
