It’s no mystery that chef Armond Joseph at Léon 1909 (29 W. Neck Road, Shelter Island, 631-749-9123) has a knack for creativity in the kitchen.
On May 22 at 7 p.m. he may be taking on his most fascinating feat yet: interpreting the 1877 menu from the first ever “Best in Show” Westminster Kennel Club dinner.
Emmy-winning producer and director Amani Martin, a Léon 1909 regular and member of the Westminster Kennel Club board, introduced the artifact to the restaurant’s team and brought owner Valerie Mnuchin to the prestigious annual Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show in New York City earlier this year.
Joseph was eager to present the menu to the restaurant’s guests, adding his own twists and adjusting it to fit modern standards while preserving the themes and thought processes behind each dish.
“I just marvel at and love watching Armond work,” says Mnuchin. “He’s constantly changing the menu with things that are fresh or things that inspire him, and so this is sort of that on steroids. This is his opportunity on a blank canvas to explore this antique menu and do his thing.”
Before sourcing even started, Joseph connected with historian Paul Freedman and author of Ten Restaurants that Changed America to dissect the menu that was originally prepared by chef Charles Ranhofer, the mind behind the restaurant Delmonico’s — a driving force that brought fine French dining to America.
Since the menu was very protein heavy in its original form, Joseph tried to lighten it up while keeping the multiple courses and opulent themes of the time.
“It was a tricky balance, because I want to bring it locally through the lens of our restaurant and Eastern Long Island sourcing. I also wanted to pay homage to what the chef did 150 years ago and take some of his decision making and put it into my own brain, and make similar decisions with different thoughts,” says Joseph.
In Joseph’s rendition, he will serve razor clams with salted bergamot and an elderflower vinegar made on Shelter Island; a lobster custard; sweetbreads with a vibrant green garlic sauce; striped bass in celebration of the start of the season; lamb stuffed with local morel mushrooms; a chicken roulade with a spread of spring vegetables; fried lamb ribs over asparagus; quail with local lettuces and a house-made magnolia vinegar; and a pawpaw mousse to finish the meal.
“It should be super interesting,” says Joseph.
The one and only time this specific dinner was served, it followed an informal Best In Show event from the Westminster Kennel Club. At the dinner, attended by a Civil War general, the founder of the ASPCA and the founder of the Metropolitan Opera, the group signed the menu and shortly after filed for articles of incorporation to make the show an official ongoing event.
“What people don’t necessarily understand is the way that the club and the people who formed it were really pivotal in elements of culture,” says Martin. “It really transcends the dog show world.”
Reserve your spot at the Léon 1909 event here. A dinner ticket is $300 and wine pairings are an additional $120 with proceeds going towards Westminster Cares, a not-for-profit in Westminster, VT, aimed at helping senior adults with disabilities live independently .
