Peter Stein of Peeko Oysters is changing the shellfish game on the East End. (Photo credit: Jeremy Garretson)

When it comes to our waters and what lives in them, I sometimes feel like I’m ever-bracing for bad news (man, do I miss those childhood days of complaining about having too many bay scallop dinners — the folly of the ignorant!). Stephanie Villani’s story — “Flipping the Script: Innovations Keep Peeko Oysters Going Strong” — about Peter Stein’s investment of time and effort into an innovative new method of oyster farming had me riveted in the best way.

Photo Credit: Jeremy Garretson

The technology, developed in New Zealand and called FlipFarming, may well be a game-changer in increasing oyster production, as well as work-life balance for the baymen who farm them. Stein didn’t stop there: he’s also the first to rethink the business model of oyster farming, creating a kind of coop template where his hatchery supplies the seed, the farmers grow them and sell them back to Peeko, which grades, counts and packs them — laborious tasks that oyster farmers working with Stein can eschew. And as an oyster lover, hearing about more of them in our midst just makes my day.