Sometimes, in the right, capable hands, a wine can take on a life of its own. Beyond branding, beyond star winemakers, beyond points and stars, the quiet work of a talented grape whisperer can turn a bottle from idea to ideal.
Wild Boar Doe is one of those wines. It’s had a bit of a journey, starting out life years ago as a cheeky label’s play on words by Rose Hill’s progenitor, Shinn Estate. But in the hands of Rose Hill winemaker Patrick Caserta, it’s become something more.
When the Frankel family, who also owns Croteaux Vineyards and Main & Mill, purchased the winery eight years ago, they decided to keep the Bordeaux blend’s fun moniker but updated the label art (and smartly trademarked the name), leaning into both its playfulness and the bigger notion that classic Bordeaux blends — a melding of all or some of the following: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec — are an important part of Long Island wine country’s past, present and future.
“All of the red Bordeaux varietals are very well suited for Long Island’s climate, growing season and soil type,” says Caserta. “We also have several different clones within the varietals of merlot and cabernet franc, which give us more diversity in creating blends. Each clone has its own little personality.”
The 2022, of which there are 815 cases (it tends to sell out — forewarned is forearmed) employs four of the five classic Bordeaux grapes. It’s a certified sustainable wine made via natural fermentation, with a month-long maceration on the skins, pulling depth of color, a just-right and ripe tannic presence and alluring aromatics, texture and concentrated black fruit flavor that casts a spell on your senses.
The Winery Rose Hill Vineyards (2000 Oregon Road, Mattituck, 631-804-0367)
The Wine 2022 Wild Boar Doe, 14.2% abv
The Price $52
The Grapes 78% merlot, 10% cabernet franc, 7% petit verdot, 5% malbec
What’s in your glass Long Island’s calling card, merlot, makes up the brunt of the 2022 blend, but Caserta makes good use of the estate’s six different clones of the grape, each of which was fermented separately and thoughtfully brought into the mix. For the 2022 vintage, “We had above average ripeness for several merlot clones, cabernet franc and petit verdot,” Caserta says, and it shows in the ripe, concentrated black cherry, blackberry and black fig fruit notes, gentle spice box sensuality and floral undertones.
Pairs with Caserta says well-seasoned roasted, grilled or braised beef and game are the 2022 Wild Boar Doe’s best buddies but, “Honestly, herb roasted rack of wild boar is a great choice.”
To hold or not to hold “Based on all of the wine’s elements — acid, pH, alcohol, tannins and complex anthocyanins — this should age well for many years under optimal storage conditions,” says Caserta. “I look forward to tasting this wine with 10-12 more years of age, perhaps even longer.”
