You would think, after 35 years in the Long Island wine business, that Russell Hearn might be running out of ideas or enthusiasm for his chosen career. Think again.
At once innovative and artful, Hearn has long been a forward-thinking leader in Long Island wine, in tune with both terroir and trend (not an easy balance to strike). After 30 years as Lieb’s head winemaker, Hearn and his family and business partners John and Reneé Fondacaro bought Lieb Cellars outright in 2023, merging it with the Suhru label Hearn and wife Susan launched in 2008.
With 4 Pinots, Hearn is once again finding that fascinating intersection between wine and what’s eye-catching, only this time he’s found the line between oenological beauty and cleverly delicious education. For most, the word “pinot” brings to mind a red wine, as in the popular global phenomenon that is pinot noir. But pinot is part of the moniker of other grapes, too. At Lieb, Hearn made pinot blanc a sought-after calling card. Pinot grigio (or gris) is the second-most popular white wine in the entire country. And pinot meunier? One of the classic grapes of Champagne.
Hearn has brought them together in this new release. Aromas of fresh lemon thyme and peach lure you in and then glide across your palate with a lightness that is also mouth-filling, while the wine’s gently plush texture and notes of lime zest linger (and make you go back for more).
The Winery Lieb Cellars
The Winemaker Russell Hearn
The Wine 2024 4 Pinots, 12.1% abv
The Price $28
The Grapes 46% pinot grigio, 29% pinot blanc, 14% pinot meunier, 11% pinot noir
What’s in your glass “Creative blends, both red and white, offer an opportunity for a winemaker to make more complete wines, more often than not,” says general manager and partner Shelby Hearn Ulrich. “Russell came up with the idea to blend four pinots that are used in different regions around the world — all of which are also grown in our region — for a fun, interesting new white blend that is different from anything else you currently see on the market. It is a pleasure to taste and holds a real intellectual interest for wine nerds and those new to the world of wine alike!”
Pairs with “Because it has a more savory quality rather than zingy acidity like a lot of our other white wines, this is a great pairing for foods with more richness or umami,” Ulrich says. “Think swordfish, poultry, tinned fish, aged cheeses and creamy pasta dishes.” We tried it with fresh local weakfish steamed in parchment paper with ginger, lemon, sesame oil, rice vinegar and a little fish sauce. It rocked!
To hold or not to hold Of the 258 cases made, this fresh, fleshy dazzler is meant to be enjoyed in the now. Don’t sit on it for more than three years, tops.
