Like many of us who had the pleasure of knowing her, it was with great sadness that I learned of the passing of chef Rosa Ross. Whipsmart, funny and a little bit formidable, I don’t know that I’ve met many people with her insatiable spirit to create and perfect, but also to teach and collaborate.

I’d known of Ross, a local legend in the best way if there ever were one, but I didn’t really get to know her until I took a job years ago as the executive director of the Long Island Merlot Alliance. I’d decided I wanted to give the organization a little shot in the arm and re-introduce an annual shmancy, fun dinner to celebrate the release of the wine that they put out annually, Merliance, a group effort of some of the area’s great winemakers and merlot crusaders. I’d heard Ross made a mean Pekin Duck and, with her help, plotted out what turned into a pretty amazing dinner that I won’t soon forget.

Ross and I stayed in touch after that, checking in on each other every now and again. When I was tasked with overseeing the production of the Long Island Wine Press last year, she approached me to write a story on cooking with Long Island wine. Truth be told, I was hesitant. The brutal honesty is lots of people think they can write well, but it’s a skill that you need to hone and work on, and while I knew Ross as a phenomenal chef, I was dubious about getting into a situation where I’d have to overwork or, worse, reject her work. Stupid me to ever doubt her. Ross never did anything half-baked.

I’m very grateful that her persistence led us to work together one last time. We had some long chats on the phone last winter where she told me all about the novel she was working on (one that I hope her daughters can find a place for in the world — I’d sure love to read it), how she was still making dumplings once a week despite grappling with illness. We gossiped about local restaurants, talked about wine. I told her about my job and she told me she was glad to see I’d landed somewhere that was a good fit and where I was happy.

It was prescient that former Northforker content director Michelina Da Fonte made Ross the cover story of Northforker’s December 2023 issue, a piece beautifully written by Lilly Jane Parnell and shot with grace by David Benthal. What follows is Ross’s final story for print — I know you’ll enjoy it and I hope, when you make the recipes she contributed here (and you should!), you raise a glass of something wonderful to her. Cheers to you, Rosa and everything you gave us. You will be so very missed.

Cooking with Long Island Wine

By Rosa Ross

With over 50 vineyards on the North Fork and East End of Long Island, wine has become a star in this region. The wineries draw many visitors, not only in the peak summer months, but all year long.

Many of us enjoy the variety and quality of these wines, and sipping a glass is a pleasure we all pursue regularly. As a person who loves to cook, however, wine has a larger, more practical role for me. I love to cook with wine and am often at a loss as to why more people don’t make wine the star in their dishes. Nearly everyone keeps a bottle of wine, usually white, to cook with. But most people don’t choose the wine with which to cook. 

Here, I focus our attention on three of Long Island’s best-known wines — merlot, sauvignon blanc and cabernet franc — and use them in dishes where the wine has the starring role in the recipes. Merlot was the first red wine to draw attention to the region and every vineyard has its own signature bottle. Sauvignon blanc is the white wine that has made a splash here. It works wonders in my poaching liquid, bringing to it a sophisticated flavor. I have even used this wine in a white sauce for salmon. For my third recipe I give you my version of the classic French favorite, coq au vin, using our beloved cabernet franc. In this recipe, I use the whole bottle, which comes to about four cups, but you can “steal” a glass to sip on while you work and your dish will still taste sublime.

The wines in these recipes become an important part of each dish, which is why it’s so important to choose one that will enhance what you are making. 

Meurette Sauce with Long Island Merlot

I love poached eggs but have always hesitated at the hollandaise that is poured over them. Egg on egg always seemed like overdoing it to me.

The acidity of the wine in this sauce is just perfect for the richness of the eggs. I even find Meurette sauce delicious on a bit of fish or even slathered on a steak.

Make a batch and I am sure one bite will have you agreeing with me.

1 tbsp. vegetable oil

2 oz. cooked ham, at least ¼ inch thick, diced

1 medium onion, minced

1 carrot, cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 stalk of celery, cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 bottle Long Island merlot

Salt and pepper, to taste

for the Slurry: 

1. Mix 1 tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch in 2 tablespoons water.

for the Sauce: 

1. In a saucepan, heat the oil and sauté ham, onion, carrot and celery until soft, about 1 minute. Add the wine and let simmer 5 minutes to cook off alcohol. For an elegant sauce, strain off solids through a fine mesh sieve.

2. In a small bowl, thoroughly combine arrowroot or cornstarch with water. Add a little at a time to the wine mixture, bring to a simmer, and cook until you have the consistency of heavy cream. Adjust salt and pepper seasoning, if necessary. 

Court Bouillon with Long Island Sauvignon Blanc

We all know poached salmon or a whole salmon makes an impressive picture on a buffet, but here is a recipe that is more suited for everyday dinner.

You don’t need a large piece of fish and can poach as little as one serving if you are
dining alone. By adding a local sauvignon blanc to the poaching liquid, I have changed an everyday liquid to something special.

In fact, I have even reduced the liquid, added cream and ended up with an elegant sauce. I like to poach fish and seafood, as this method retains the gentle texture of the food. 

10 cups water

2 carrots, sliced

1 onion, minced

2 stalks, celery, cut into cubes

A small bunch of parsley or just parsley stems

2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

2 bay leaves

12 whole black peppercorns

1 bottle Long Island sauvignon blanc

1. Choose a pot that will accommodate the fish you are going to poach.

2. Add water, then carrots, onion, celery, parsley or parsley stems, thyme, bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring to a boil and add wine. Return to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until bouillon is aromatic. Add fish or seafood and poach until just done. Do not overcook, as the protein will toughen.

3. Vegetables are also good poached in this flavorful court bouillon.

Coq au Vin with Long Island Cabernet Franc

And here is my star recipe. I love this dish. The chicken braised in a rich red wine sauce is a beloved staple in my kitchen. Since I live on the North Fork I like to cook with the local wines, and I have found that a good Long Island cabernet franc will deliver the best version of this beloved French classic.

Here is my recipe, and don’t be shy about sipping on a glass while you cook. You will still end up with a generous amount of delicious sauce.

I like to use beurre manie to thicken this delicious sauce. Beurre manie is nothing more than equal parts of butter and flour mashed together to form a ball. Bits are pinched off and added to a sauce that you want thickened. I keep a lump in my freezer and have it ready whenever I need to use a bit of it. The pearl onions are easy to peel if you boil them for a few minutes, then refresh them under cold water. The skins just slip right off.

8 oz. pearl onions, peeled

8
oz. cremini or white button mushrooms

3 tbsp. sweet butter

2 tbsp. vegetable oil

2 oz. salt pork or bacon, cut into cubes

1
whole chicken, about 3 to 4 lbs. cut into 8 pieces — or 3 to 4 lbs. bone-in chicken thighs and legs 

1 onion, minced

1 carrot, diced

1 celery stalk, diced

Three sprigs fresh thyme leaves

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tbsp. tomato paste

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tbsp. brandy (optional)

1 bottle Long Island cabernet franc

1. In a deep-sided heavy pan large enough to cook the chicken in a single layer, heat the butter and vegetable oil. Add the pearl onions and cook for three to five minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate. Add the mushrooms and cook until just done, 5 minutes. Remove to the plate and set aside.

2. Add the chicken and cook until lightly brown. Remove chicken pieces to a plate and set aside.

3. Add the salt pork to the pan and sauté until the fat is rendered and the pork bits are a little crisp. Add the minced onion, diced carrot and celery, and sauté 1 minute, then return the chicken and any juices to the pan. Add the garlic, thyme leaves, tomato paste, salt, and pepper, and 1 bottle of Long Island cabernet franc. Bring to a simmer and cook until the chicken is tender, about 30 minutes. Add the mushrooms and pearl onions and cook another 8 to 10 minutes. Season to taste. 

4. Thicken sauce with beurre manie, a bit at a time, until it has the consistency of heavy cream.

5. Serve with white crusty bread, rice or noodles and enjoy!