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All-day breakfast and elevated diner food at Nookies. (Photo credit: Lilly Parnell)

Belly up to the Formica — there’s something special going on over at the Silver Sands.

The gist: This charming yet modest restaurant inside the Silver Sands Motel is an homage to the 1950s snack bar that stood in the exact location over 70 years ago. Open year-round and nestled in the property’s southwest corner, it’s a tucked away little gem that embraces both simplicity and throwback style.

The vibe: At Nookies, part of the fun is the nod to American diner nostalgia. Stepping into the diner feels like traveling back to a simpler time — from the mint green swivel chairs and bright orange ceramic mugs to wood paneling and shiny chrome details. The kitchen is centrally located in the dining room, offering a soda counter-style dining experience where patrons can see and chat with the chefs preparing their food. 

The food: The love of old-school diners from across New York State is obvious the menu. He relies on fresh ingredients from across the North Fork to elevate the flavors of each dish and his dedication to quality is apparent in every bite. Breakfast, lunch and dessert are all made from scratch and evoke familiarity while presenting a novel experience that you’ll want to return to over and over, like a lovely memory. 

Breakfast all day: Like a classic diner should, Nookies serves up an all-day morning menu with breakfast sandwich staples — like the sausage, egg and cheese made with a maple syrup sausage patty and jammy over-medium eggs squished inside a fluffy house-made biscuit. And no breakfast experience here is complete without a side order of hash browns, cooked here in a latke style, fried on all sides to ensure crispiness in every bite. The hash browns come with the option of a dollop of sweet New York apple butter or a seasonal smoked fish spread with dill and sriracha for a spicy, savory pop.

Fresh finds: The oysters in the oyster chowder are harvested from Peconic Bay — just steps from the restaurant — shucked to order and slow-poached to tease out the delectably sweet and briny nature of the plump shellfish, swimming alongside cubed potatoes in a savory, sea-kissed broth. 

For sweet tooths: Treat yourself to a short stack of plain, chocolate chip or blueberry pancakes. They’re made with malted buttermilk powder, adding a delicately nutty flair to the pancakes, and dusted with powdered sugar. 

Nostalgic bites: Roderick offers the quintessential blend of familiar bites from childhood but treats ingredients with a respect and creativity that shines through. Like the tomato soup — the heirloom star ingredient gets a smoky punch from a flame-licked turn in an off-premise wood-fired pizza oven, accented with bright, fresh mint and complemented nicely by a side of bite-sized grilled cheese soldiers. The Smashburger is soft and chewy with a dreamy combination of mouth-watering tomatoes, a caramelized sear on the patty and a salty sesame bun. 

Nookies at the Silver Sands Motel
1400 Silvermere Road, Greenport

Wednesday through Friday: noon to 8 p.m. 
Saturday and Sunday: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. 

Follow: @silversandsmotel