The owner of Léon 1909 brings a little Riviera influence to the East End restaurant scene, but when it comes to summer she’ll take Shelter Island over the South of France any day.
Valerie Mnuchin isn’t the first to turn a bank into a restaurant, but she may be the first to add a roaring, crackling 14-foot hearth to one. Walk into lovely Léon 1909 (29 West Neck Road, 631-749-9123) on Shelter Island, and it’s the first thing you’ll see and where much of the fare is cooked over open fire to a clamoring crowd of fans year-round.
The inspiration for this ambitious transformation of finance into flame hangs by the host stand: a photo of Mnuchin’s grandfather, whose treks to Nice, France, close to the border of Italy, inspired the whole idea.
“I call it Riviera food because it speaks to both the cultures of Italy and France, and that’s where our family’s love lies,” says Mnuchin of her brood’s connection to the Blue Coast. Mnuchin and her father, Robert, purchased the old Capital One building, set about recreating the vibe of a special restaurant they would visit high in the hills outside of Nice called La Chaumiere. “It had an open hearth and everything was fresh from the sea and farms,” she says. “So we decided to try to do our own version.”
Now on its third summer, the in-demand eatery has proven its bankable status. Most nights, you’ll find Mnuchin smiling broadly and ushering guests to their tables. And when she’s not lingering at Léon, Shelter Island’s charms never burn out for the restaurateur.
Here are a few of Valerie Mnuchin’s favorite things.
Favorite spot for people-watching
Sunset Beach (35 Shore Road, 631-749-2001), just because you get such a cross section people.
Favorite island spot for a bike ride
Ram Island. I just love that it’s basically an island off an island, and so it always feels magical to me.
Favorite place to relax with a cocktail
Léon! So, I’m very wed to a creative farm-to-table bar and we’re so lucky to have [bartender] Gillian Georges, who’s all about steeping and brewing her own tinctures. She works so closely with Armond [Joseph] from our kitchen. She’s even growing own herbs and is very much about matching the cocktail list to the food and making it a very bespoke and flavorful experience. I love sitting on the back patio with something special she’s made.
Favorite farm stand or market to gather the fixings for a picnic
Sylvester Manor Farm Stand (21 Manwaring Road, 631-749-0626) is definitely my favorite, and Marie Eiffel Market, too (184 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0003). I’d also add in a sourdough boule from Léon!
Favorite sunset spot
The Pridwin (81 Shore Road, 631-749-0476).
Favorite place to go clothing shopping
I like Marie Eiffel (182 North Ferry Road, 212-945-8492) for that, too. I’m a little bit of a Francophile and I just love her sensibility. I’m famous for running in at 5 p.m. and saying, “Shoot, it’s freezing! I need a sweater!”
Favorite place to take visitors for an island-centric souvenir
First would be the toys at Jack’s Marine (188 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0114), and then I would say Sam the Bottle Man. I have no idea what his last name is, but I have a little collection of old bottles from the 18th and 19th centuries from Shelter Island, and they all come from Sam the Bottle Man. It’s one of my favorite things to get for someone special.
Favorite place to buy fresh flowers
Kelci [McIntosh] at Island Time Farm and Gardens (62 North Ferry Road, 631-903-1261). I love her sensibility.
Favorite spot to let off some steam
Shell Beach. I really love the beach.
Favorite time of the year on Shelter Island
Summer. Truthfully, I love Shelter Island all year long, but I love when I can sit on the ferry with all the windows open. I’m a sucker for summer.