When Opties and Dinghies, the French-Asian inspired Orient-based eatery, had to abandon their bright and cozy little brick-and-mortar dumpling-slinging spot back in the fall of 2023, a tremor of deep dismay rumbled through the stomachs of their East End fans. But as of this month, the dumpling-crepe-gelato go-to is back in action — and better than ever.
After a soft opening on July 4th weekend, owners Vincent Bertault and Claudia Lin relaunched their popular eatery on Shelter Island at 87 North Ferry Road in the spot that for decades was home to island staple, Bob’s Fish Market and Restaurant, owned by the Ryder family and, the more recent incarnation, Shelter Island Seafood.
“We wanted to have a new start but didn’t want to leave the East End of Long Island,” says Lin. “We didn’t want to leave the best community around. After five years, we have managed to cultivate a very loyal group of supportive customers.”
After renovations to the building, now owned by Islander Darrin Binder, who is the proprietor of Binder Pools, the restaurant is back to its signature bright, airy vibe, with a cheery indoor seating and ordering area painted cloud-white with tropical lime green trim, a counter for ordering plus a double case of Il Labortorio gelato flavors, in everything from traditional butter pecan to the more eye-catching Turkish Fig and Ube, and a series of outdoor tables to indulge in Bertault and Lin’s combined culinary talents.
To the uninitiated, concept might seem like an odd combo, but just like peanut butter and chocolate, it works. It works so well, don’t be surprised if you find yourself showing up at their 7 a.m. opening time to start your day with a hot coffee and croissant or delicate but hardy breakfast crêpe made by Bertault.
For loyal fans of O and D, you’ll be happy to know that a bigger kitchen scenario means more room for additional dishes and creativity in the 2.0 version. “Since we have the opportunity of having a bigger kitchen, the menu is the same but a little different,” says Lin. “We’re able to do more things. I can do fried rice, lo mein, beef and broccoli – all things I prefer to make for myself that I’ve added to the menu.”
Also new at O and D: a liquor license. Right now, they’re serving wine and beer only, but cocktails are on the docket for the future, says Lin.
Bonus: Just on the other side of the sliding doors, renowned local fisherman Jermain Owens, (initially part of the crew who opened Shelter Island Seafood a few years ago), is back in the space with a fresh-catch market dubbed North Fork Seafood.
“The fish market really does help because I get all the fresh fish from Jermain. We did a paella night with his product, we do mussels and fries on Tuesdays, so we are cohabitating very nicely!” laughs Lin. “I don’t have to go far to get tuna or shrimp from Montauk right from the docks. I think that’s really the other arm that has been missing — I can work directly with Jermain and we’re very happy together.”
The Opties and Dinghies offers a giddy round-up of dim-sum favorites: around eight to 10 different types of dumplings that are core to the menu (which come in small or large — that is, four or eight-dumpling servings), a multitude of other satisfying dishes like sticky rice, crispy, light-as-air scallion pancakes, plump lotus bean or pork bao, gently spicy cold sesame noodles and a whole menu of sweet and savory crepes. Oh, and quiche options, too — you know, just in case you’re still hungry. The gelato is an evolving 40-flavor-strong center of scoops that will have you checking back in weekly to see what’s new.
Right now, they are open daily and plan to remain so through the holidays, with a well-deserved break in January and February, with an early spring 2025 re-opening likely.
While the Island location might feel sequestered to some, what this new spot does for Bertault and Lin is open their kitchen to a whole new crew of fans from the South Fork, who likely hadn’t made the trek to Orient prior. Will there be dueling for dumplings in the near future? It could happen…
Opties and Dinghies is open 7 days a week from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
