As someone who did not grow up on Long Island nor in New York, I will admit it took me some time to understand the importance of a good breakfast sandwich.
Over the past five years — through much trial and error — I’ve now learned the value of the perfect ratio of bacon, egg, cheese and bread on an early morning. I agree with the majority of New Yorkers: the best breakfast sandwiches come from family-owned, hole-in-the-wall delis. Yet this month, I’ve found the perfect elevated breakfast sandwich for those times I want to treat myself to something a bit fancier than your average sandwich.
Bruce & Son in Greenport may have somewhat of a cult following for their hard-to-beat brunch. When I first visited the Greenport spot earlier this spring, deciding what to order was a challenge. From their rotating selection of hot cakes, their seasonal grilled cheeses and endless choices of unique cocktails and coffees, I was overwhelmed.
I decided to go with the classic, something that is difficult to get wrong: the egg sandwich. At Bruce & Son, this sandwich consists of a folded omelet served on a fluffy and sweet brioche bun, but there is so much more to that. While I prefer oozy and over easy on my egg sandwich, I was pleasantly surprised by the fluffy omelet — it saves on the gooey mess usually associated with a runny yolk.
The egg is topped with melted Gruyere, offering a richly nutty flavor to the mild egg scramble. Homemade dijonnaise and pickled onion add an intense sourness — a personal favorite flavor of mine. This sourness — while not overwhelming to any extent — is cut by the earthiness of the arugula.
The “cherry on top” of this elevated breakfast treat: the sugar bacon. The baked sugar bacon is the ultimate combination of sweet and savory. It’s been a signature menu item for over 40 years, and it is obvious why. The crispy bacon completes this celebration of flavors and textures.
This egg sandwich has been a staple on the menu since chef Scott Bollman inherited the restaurant from his father, Bruce, over a decade ago. While the menu often changes to accommodate the ever-rotating selection of seasonal produce available across the North Fork, the egg sandwich has remained.
I was expecting an average egg sandwich, but I knew I would be blown away as soon as the waiter set my plate on the table. The shiny bun was picture-perfect and the entire sandwich encapsulated a palette of sweet, salty and sour throughout every bite. It’s something I recommend again and again to friends visiting Greenport.
To try this dish for yourself, you can visit Bruce & Son at 208 Main St. in Greenport. See their full menu and make a reservation in advance at www.bruceandsongreenport.com.
