In a time of international produce and air freight, we become accustomed to seeing asparagus and strawberries on our supermarket shelves year-round. Not so much rhubarb, which appears around May first from West Coast growers. But when these harbingers of spring appear locally it is different: The flavor is more intense, the freshness is palpable and the feeling is special.
The luxury of having all things available all the time is not as good as it sounds. We are very lucky that, on the North Fork, when the time comes, we can savor the real thing. Here is a meal that features all three: (more…)