Trenette al Nero con Granchio from Barba Bianca. (Credit: David Benthal)
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The Dish: Trenette al Nero con Granchio
Chef Frank DeCarlo
Barba Bianca, Greenport
Chef DeCarlo’s Trenette al Nero con Granchio, which literally translates to Black Trenette with Crab, is a true North Fork summer dish as blue crabs are plentiful in the Peconic Bay this time of year.
The components balance perfectly with the brininess and umami from the squid ink, the sweetness of the crab meat, and the acidity of the tomatoes.The first step in creating the dish is making the pasta. Black ink from the squid’s ink sac is added to semola flour, double 00 flour, and eggs. The crabs are then sautéed with garlic, white wine, tomato and garnished with flat parsley.
Visually, DeCarlo’s dish was inspired by crabs on the beach in a mass of black seaweed. As Barba Bianca focuses on traditional seaside recipes from Italy, spaghetti con granchio is a classic dish from the Italian coastal city, Venice.
Chef Frank DeCarlo has never set out to prepare Italian dishes the way most Americans are accustomed to eating. You will not find spaghetti and meatballs on his menus. The truth is he’d rather serve you underutilized North Fork seafood like whelk, eel and mantis shrimp — “junk fish,” as it’s sometimes referred to by those unacquainted with its culinary potential. (more…)
The recently opened Barba Bianca, located directly on Preston’s Wharf, offers one of the North Fork’s best backdrops for dinner.
But what really attracts us to this bayfront establishment is the inventive way owner Frank DeCarlo (who you might know from New York City’s Peasant) makes use of what is called trash fish or junk fish.
At Barba Bianca — so named for the white beards of the fishermen of days past — you’ll find dishes made with mantis shrimp and bluefish among the offerings.
Here are some things you might not know about this Manhattan turned East End chef. (more…)
Chef Frank DeCarlo inside his new restaurant, Barba Bianca, in Greenport. (Credit: Zu/Courtesy photo).
Underutilized North Fork seafood like whelk, eel and mantis shrimp — what is sometimes called trash or junk fish — will be the star of the show at the new Barba Bianca restaurant in Greenport.
The approximately 80-seat restaurant, located directly over the water on Preston’s Wharf, officially opened for aperitivo and dinner on Thursday evening.
Don’t expect chicken parmesan or meatballs at this Italian eatery. Chef Frank DeCarlo, who owns the restaurant along with his wife Dulcinea Benson, is well-known for his wood-burning rustic Italian restaurant Peasant, located in the NoLiTa section of Manhattan. He hopes to bring that style of cooking — minus the wood oven — to Greenport.
“As far as Italian food goes, everybody has an idea that they can just cook Italian food — that it’s easy. But there are many layers of Italian food,” he said. “The dishes we do [at Peasant] are not only centuries old, but they are historically correct and regional. They are very off-the-beaten-path dishes.” (more…)