What’s in a name? With The Old Field’s Commodore Perry, quite a bit.
While talking with a friend of Japanese origin about Perry Bliss’s fascinating family history (on both sides — her dad, Chris Baiz, who passed away in February, is the fourth generation of his family to farm the land here), it came to light that Bliss’s mom, Ros, was a descendant of an important U.S. Navy officer who figured prominently in both Japanese and American history.
“Commodore Matthew Perry opened up trade with Japan [in 1854] — he’s huge in Japan,” says Bliss. Bliss’s friend suggested they name their best wine after the ancestor, and Commodore Perry merlot was born in the year 2000.
“We took the best vintage and grapes, which happened to be merlot, and turned it into Commodore Perry,” Bliss says.
Indeed, merlot is the lion’s share of what they sustainably grow here, with half of the 10 acres they keep under vine devoted to it. Both Bliss and her mom were mentored in winemaking and vineyard management by former Lenz winemaker Eric Fry, and both are responsible for the result of the gorgeous juice in the 2020 release, of which only 75 scant cases were made.
The Winery The Old Field
The Winemaker Perry Bliss and Ros Baiz
The Wine 2020 Commodore Perry Merlot, 12% abv
The Price $45
The Grapes 100% merlot
What’s in your glass The year 2020 was exactly the right kind of vintage for a Commodore Perry release. “[It] was a gorgeous growing year,” says Bliss. “We had tons of sun and little rain in the fall, which made the grapes much more complex and sweeter.” To make it, they engage in a practice called green harvesting: culling some of the fruit early on to heighten the concentration of flavor and body in the remaining grapes. Indeed, the 2020 CP — which boasts a dense ruby hue from fermenting on its skins for nearly three weeks — unfolds itself with heavy, vibrant black cherry on the nose, along with whispers of geranium and wild summer strawberries. It’s a little more than medium bodied with a softness to the tannins and texture, hinting at the ripening advantages of time in the bottle.
Pairs with Grilled skirt steak on the rare side, herby mushroom risotto, or really good charcuterie (hit up 8 Hands Farm and keep it local!).
To hold or not to hold This beauty has a long life ahead. Drink now or hold for a solid decade.
