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Here locally and around the world there are myriad styles of rosé available. They can range from the palest of pinks to the rubiest of reds. Some are even darker than some “red” pinot noirs on the market. There is truly something for just about anyone. And if you don’t think you like rosé, you probably just haven’t explored enough. 

This week’s Wine of the Week, Saltbird Cellars 2017 Roseate Rosé ($23), is a unique Long Island rosé for several reasons.

First, its grape composition — 61 percent cabernet franc and 39 percent syrah — differentiates it from just about every rosé here. That syrah is unique and it shines through.

The nose is layered and changes over time in the glass showing layers of floral, citrus, strawberry, strawberry husk and white pepper to varying degrees at different times.

Light and feathery, the palate tastes a bit like strawberry-rhubarb pie filling without the sweetness. The syrah brings a peppery spice component while the cabernet franc offers just a little earthiness. Nicely balanced, but not super nervy, the flavors and body are a bit delicate, but no less delicious.

Owner/winemaker Robin Epperson McCarthy recommends not over-chilling it — and I tend to agree. Too cold, it’s a bit less complex and interesting.

It’s available for $23 at Peconic Cellar Door, a shared tasting room for Saltbird Cellars and Brookyln Oenology.

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