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Sparkling Pointe 2014 Brut. (Credit: Lenn Thompson)

After tasting through most of the Sparkling Pointe portfolio at last weekend’s Harvest East End event, I can say without reservation that the winery is really hitting its stride. The wines have really never been better — which helps explain why the winery was named co-winery of the year earlier this week at the New York Food & Wine Classic.

There are two primary styles of methode champenoise, also known as Champagne method, sparkling wine.

On one end are the richer, nuttier styles, usually brought about by barrel fermentation and/or extended time on the lees (spent yeast). These are the wines that smell and taste like pastry, yeast and nuts.

On the other end sits a wine like this week’s “Wine of the Week” Sparkling Pointe 2014 Brut ($29), a style that are less about those richer flavors and concentration and driven instead by purity, freshness and focus. Of all the wines I tasted at Harvest East End, this was the only one I went back for a splash of to actually drink before heading home.

Beautiful, crisp orchard fruit qualities — green apple and juicy pear — are accented by a squirt of citrus and just the most subtle notes of sweet cream and shortbread. With fine bead — that wine geek speak for the size of the bubbles — and brisk acidity, it’s hard to picture a better wine to enjoy with most any non-red meat food.

The 2014 Brut is available at the winery’s Southold tasting room for $29.

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