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Baked Salmon Wellington. (Credit: Chef John Ross)

Wild salmon have been a staple food for the native people of the Pacific Northwest for thousands of years. They are the most sought-after American fish. Farmed salmon, which are mostly imported, now dominate our market and, while they have come a long way in quality and sustainability, still don’t provide the same eating experience as the wild version. 
During the spring and early summer, the wild Alaskan salmon is in season and, thanks to rapid air shipping, it is available here on the East Coast. There are five major species of salmon from the Northwest: king, coho, sockeye, keta and pink. The king (or chinook) salmon is the largest and prized for its silky red flesh, buttery texture and high oil content. All wild salmon are very healthy, with high omega 3 fatty acids and vitamin D and low omega 6 and saturated fat.

I was given a whole wild Alaskan salmon that was packed in dry ice and shipped via Fed Ex direct from Alaska to my door in Southold. I broke it down by cutting off the two sides into large fillets, then carefully removing all the scraps of flesh that still clung to the bones and head area. Here are some ideas of how to use this American icon as a centerpiece for the July 4 weekend:

Fresh Wild Salmon Cakes

The trimmings and scraps from the whole salmon amounted to about 1 1/2 pounds of flesh. Remove any bones and trim off the skin. Cut the flesh into quarter-inch dice and refrigerate.

Heat a large sauté pan and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Stir in 1/4 cup chopped shallots, 1/4 cup minced green onion, 1/2 cup finely chopped red bell pepper and 1/2 cup minced celery. Sauté briefly on medium heat and season with 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill, 2 tablespoons chopped capers, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon ground pepper. Remove from the heat and cool.

When cooled to room temperature, add 1/4 cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1/4 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning and 1/2 cup panko crumbs. Gently fold this mixture into the diced salmon and refrigerate for 1 hour or more.

At service time, line a sheet pan with foil and spray with no-stick. Using a 1/3 cup measure, portion out the salmon cakes onto the sheet pan, pressing them down slightly with a spatula (you should get about 10 cakes). Sprinkle the top of the cakes with panko crumbs and smoked paprika.

Cook in a 425-degree oven for 12-15 minutes.

To cook on a chargrill, soak a cedar plank in cold water. Toast it on the hot grill for 2 minutes per side. Then brush the plank liberally with oil and place the salmon cakes on the plank. Close the lid of the grill and roast for about 10 minutes or until the flesh turns opaque.

Serve with a bechamel dill sauce.

Bechamel Dill Sauce

Place 2 cups milk in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a separate pan and stir in 1/4 cup flour to make a roux. Whisk this into the milk and bring to a slow boil. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/2 teaspoon white pepper, the juice and zest of 1 lemon and 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill. Stir in 2 tablespoons sour cream and serve warm.

Baked Salmon Wellington

Purchase a whole side of salmon (or use the side of a whole fish) and remove the skin and pin bones. Trim the flesh about 2 inches from the tail end and reserve. Refrigerate the salmon.

Strip the leaves from 1 bunch of kale, wash in a bath of cold water and drain.

Heat a large sauté pan and add 2 tablespoons butter. Stir in 1/4 cup chopped shallots and 1 tablespoon minced garlic. Sauté briefly and add the kale. Cover and cook at medium heat for 5 minutes and remove from the heat.

Place the kale on a cutting board and chop coarsely with a chef’s knife, then place it in a bowl. Stir in 1/2 cup cream cheese, 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, 1/4 cup chopped dill, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

Chop the reserved tail flesh and stir it into the kale mixture and refrigerate.

Thaw out 1 package of frozen puff pastry sheets and lay them on a lightly floured surface. Roll them into rectangles about 2 inches wider and longer than they are in the package. Overlap them on the table so that they are about 3 inches longer than the fish.

Place the salmon on the puff pastry skin side down and spoon the kale filling on top of the salmon, covering the entire length.

Break 1 egg into a bowl and whisk in 1 teaspoon water. Brush this wash along the edges of the puff pastry and fold the pastry over the salmon. Fold the ends also.
Place the salmon on a parchment-lined sheet pan and score the pastry with a sharp knife into a crosshatch pattern.

Brush the entire pastry with the egg wash and place in a 425-degree oven for 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove and slice into 2-inch-thick portions.
Serves 4-6.

To make a perfect accompaniment for wild salmon during summer, I suggest:

Shredded Zucchini with Pesto

Trim off the ends from 4 zucchini. Shred each into a large bowl with a box grater. Wrap the shredded zucchini in a towel and squeeze out all the liquid that you can.

Heat a large sauté pan and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add 4 sliced cloves of garlic and cook until brown. Remove the garlic and add 1 thinly sliced onion and the shredded zucchini. Cook over high heat for 3 minutes and remove from the heat.

Stir in 1/2 cup grated Parmesan and 1/2 cup fresh pesto.

For the pesto, add to the bowl of a food processor: 1/4 cup pine nuts; 2 cups chopped basil; 1 cup parsley; 1 tablespoon minced garlic; 3/4 cup olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Process until smooth and stir in 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese.

Watermelon Salad

Combine in a large bowl 8 cups of cubed seedless watermelon; 1 cup diced feta cheese; 1 cup pitted kalamata olives; and 1 cup chopped mint leaves.

Make a dressing by placing in a jar the juice and zest of 1 lemon; the juice and zest of 1 lime; 2 tablespoons honey; 1/4 cup olive oil; a few drops of Tabasco sauce; and a pinch of salt and pepper.

Toss the dressing with the watermelon mixture and serve.

John Ross, chef and author, has been an active part of the North Fork food and wine community for more than 35 years. For contact information, go to his website, www.chefjohnross.com.

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