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Moustache Brewing Co.’s Sailor Mouth IPA (not pictured here) is our ‘Wine of the Week.’ (Credit: Vera Chinese)

This week’s wine of the week isn’t a wine at all – it’s a deliciously juicy IPA from a brewery that deserves attention well beyond what it gets from the tribe of local beer geeks.

Moustache Brewing Co. – Lauri and Matt Spitz’s small brewery, which shares a building on Hallett Avenue with an auto parts shop — isn’t the type of brewery you’re going to drive by and pop into to taste some beer. In fact, even if you drive down the dead-end street, you may not be sure you’re in the right place.

You are, though, and it’s a beer destination well worth the side trip to Polish Town.

There is a lot of very good beer being brewed on Long Island today. We’re lucky to be living (and drinking) in the midst of a local beer renaissance. Even the biggest Long Island breweries have at least a beer or two that I’m confident ordering if I see it on tap at a restaurant or bar.

Moustache is different. In a good way.

I haven’t tasted every single beer that Lauri and Matt have brewed, but I’ve tasted a lot of them – and they are all good and often great. I’m always impressed when any beverage producer has a “no-clunker” portfolio. Moustache’s beers are true to style, never boring and often unique or interesting.

One of the best things going at Moustache is their “IPA of the Month.” It seems as though it would result in the occasional let-down, but I’ve enjoyed them all. And the process has spawned Sailor Mouth, the latest beer to join the brewery’s “core beer” lineup.

Named as such because of Lauri’s affection for colorful language (and because “Potty Mouth” isn’t super-appetizing), it’s a blend of their August and December 2015 IPAs, dry-hopped twice with Amarillo and Comet hops.

In some beer circles, IPA has gotten a bad rap of late with folks complaining that too many are either out of balance, too bitter, too hoppy, etc.

For me, this is exactly the kind of IPA I want with food. It’s juicy and peachy-citrusy with some nice, high-toned floral aromas and just a bit of the resin-pine character that some hops provide.

Make no mistake – it’s hoppy – but it’s not mouth-punishingly bitter or over-the-top. It’s true to the American IPA style without the steroids. At 6.5% abv, you can drink a couple without really feeling it and it doesn’t overwhelm most foods either.

Look for it at your local restaurants and pubs – or visit the tasting room to take a growler home for the Super Bowl this weekend. It’ll be great with those wings and nachos you’re going to be eating.

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