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Top Photo: Savory and sweet scones from “Good Food.” (Credit: Vera Chinese

At the top of the list of our current favorite local food obsessions are the savory scones from Good Food in Mattituck.

The scones are made with either gruyere or cheddar and also either scallions or chives.

“I try to do gruyere and chives when I can,” said Good Food co-owner and baker Allison Katz.

The secret to making them oh so good, she said, is knowing when to leave the unbaked mixture alone.

“You don’t play too much with the dough,” she said. “You just toss them together and bake them.”

Whatever she’s doing, it’s working.

Whichever ingredients are used, the cheese and herbs complement one another nicely and the pastry has a nice not-too-firm, not-too-soft texture.

Disclaimer: It is impossible to talk about North Fork scones without mentioning the exquisite varieties produced at Aldo’s in Greenport. However, for me, what makes the scones at Good Food stand out is their lack of sweetness. High sugar content can be a real turnoff early in the morning, but most breakfast pastries are loaded with it.

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Enjoy a Good Foods scone with a cup of North Fork Roasting Co. coffee (which is also served at the Pike Place spot) for a grab-and-go breakfast.

The eatery’s sweet scones (which we haven’t tried, though Katz said they’re also a customer favorite) are made using a totally different recipe. They’re made with cream rather than butter, along with dried fruit like apricots and cherries.

“I’ve heard several times people come in and say, ‘These are the best scones I’ve ever had,’ ” Katz said of both offerings. “That feels pretty good.”

Fresh scones are $4 each. Bags of several day-old pastries are available for $3.95.

Top Photo: Savory and sweet scones from “Good Food.” (Credit: Vera Chinese)

Vera Chinese