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Taqueria Cielito Mexico. (Credit: Vera Chinese)

A statue of a squat Italian man sporting a chef’s toque still stands guard over the entrance of the building that formerly housed Julia’s Pizzeria in downtown Riverhead, but the sombrero on his head is a nod to the cuisine currently offered at the eatery.

In this week’s edition of “What’s for Lunch?” we recommend an authentic Mexican meal from Taqueria Cielito Lindo on E. Main Street in Riverhead.

We chose the tacos dorados. Chicken and cheese are served in four deep fried tortillas and topped with shredded lettuce, tomatoes and sour cream ($9).

This tasty and hearty dish isn’t for those who are counting calories, but it’s sure to satisfy. The flour tortillas at this taqueria are fresh and made in-house, and with tacos at just $2.50 a pop, the price is certainly right.

Of course, the menu features the common items like quesadillas, tacos and burritos, yes. But Mexican food enthusiasts will be happy to find more unusual fare like the eatery’s sopa Aztec, a soup made with fried tortillas, avocado chunks, pork rinds, cheese and sour cream.

It is no surprise that this cheap eats joint, owned by husband-and-wife team Edgar and Jasmin Diaz-Leal whose, does what it does so well.

Jasmin Diaz-Leal’s parents, George and Justina Rojas, own Mexico Lindo, a grocery store featuring Hispanic products in Riverhead, and the Mexican restaurant El Rodeo in East Moriches.

The menu features dishes influenced by cuisine that is popular in Toluca, which is an hour from Mexico City, and Puebla, in the center of Mexico, Diaz-Leal told the Riverhead News-Review in July.

Taqueria Cielito Lindo is located at 29 E. Main Street in Riverhead.

What’s for a lunch is a weekly northforker.com column highlighting delicious mid-day meals on the North Fork. Suggestions can be sent to [email protected].

Previously:

Joe’s Garage and Grill

Six Three One

Avo Mexican Grill

Braun Seafood Co.

Funcho’s Fajita Grill

Ammirati’s

Coronet

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