08/05/17 6:00am

The younger set at poolside during the author’s recent family gathering. (Credit: John Ross)

This was the summer when the relatives came. Nine grandchildren, three sets of parents, a couple of in-laws and three dogs. A wonderful long-awaited gathering months in the making. Feeding this group is a labor of love, but for a chef who cooks from scratch using fresh ingredients it presents a challenge in 2017.

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07/22/17 6:00am

Shrimp, clams, mussels, potatoes and corn — combined in a large paella pan — are part of a clambake for 12. (Credit: John Ross)

“Gather a lot of stones and lay close together. Gather driftwood and lay it on these stones and build a really good hot fire. Meanwhile, nearby dig an 18-inch or 2-foot hole in the ground, and after the fire has died down and the stones are piping hot, get a stick and roll them into the hole, enough to cover the bottom well. Have ready some seaweed, and (more…)

07/08/17 5:45am

Cantaloupe and cherry tomato salad also has cucumber, avocado and mint. (Credit: John Ross)

As June ends and July begins, the farm stands come alive and we are blessed by an abundance of local produce. After June’s asparagus, spinach, sugar snap peas, rhubarb and strawberries comes the arrival of sweet corn in July. Then the tomatoes, the melons and the berries. And in the midst of all this we still enjoy the bounty of the sea. Here is a meal that includes some of July’s many ingredients: (more…)

06/24/17 5:01am

North Fork Chef John Ross at work in his home office. (Credit: Lois Ross)

As you, my loyal readers, know, I enjoy a little poetry with my food, along with good company. Poems provide inspiration that takes mundane cooking to a higher level. And cooking from scratch, using the freshest ingredients, is therapy for me and almost becomes a spiritual experience.

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06/10/17 6:01am

Asian barbecued pork with stir-fried spring vegetables and jasmine rice. (Credit: John Ross)

As time passes and our knowledge of food and cooking increases, we seem to be much more confident around the outdoor barbecue. The equipment is more sophisticated, the deck is bigger and our repertoire of recipes is expanding. In my backyard I have a pop-up tent that covers a Big Green Egg, a Weber charcoal grill, an old smoker and a portable Green Egg. (more…)

04/24/17 3:10pm
A sous vide machine can cook food evenly throughout while still retaining its moisture. (Credit: Dr. John Miller)

A sous vide machine can cook food evenly throughout while still retaining its moisture. (Credit: Dr. John Miller)

A hardy water bath is the secret to “sous vide” cooking. With some inexpensive equipment and a container of water we can all cook like a professional chef.

Sous vide is a French cooking technique that translates to “under vacuum.” In this technique food is vacuum-sealed in a cooking pouch and heated up at a precise temperature in a water bath.

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04/15/17 9:16am
Start your Easter meal with deviled eggs surrounded by avocado, grapefruit and baby kale. (Credit: John Ross)

Start your Easter meal with deviled eggs surrounded by avocado, grapefruit and baby kale. (Credit: John Ross)

Although lamb is more commonly served in the spring and at Easter due to its long tradition dating back centuries, smoked ham is a popular second choice. This came from a scarcity of lamb in northern Europe and the tradition there of smoking and curing ham over the winter. This tradition continued in colonial America, especially in the South. Today, we continue to enjoy smoked ham as a choice for Easter.

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