North Fork Table & Inn still excellent: The New York Times

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In its first review of North Fork Table & Inn in a decade, The New York Times said the vision of late chef Gerry Hayden has continued, again rating it “excellent.” 

In the review, published online Friday afternoon, new chef Stephan Bogardus earns raves, with the critic noting his “seductive contemporary American cuisine” and crediting him with “doing a splendid job of following the trail blazed by Mr. Hayden.”

“Nearly everything we tried was exemplary,” wrote critic Joanne Starkey, who also gave a nod to pastry chef Claudia Fleming, who also co-owns the Southold eatery.

Tagliatelle in a butter sauce — served with chives, Parmesan and shaved black truffles on top — was credited as the “best entree” on the menu, while the review also made mention of the house-smoked organic Scottish salmon as the top appetizer.

The Times’ previous review of North Fork Table & Inn, also written by Ms. Starkey, was published July 23, 2006, two months after the restaurant first opened. That original review noted the New York City pedigree of the two couples who owned it — Mr. Hayden and Ms. Fleming in the kitchen and Mike and Mary Mraz, who run the front of the house. Mr. Hayden died last year following a battle with ALS.

The final three words of the follow-up review make clear just how much the three surviving partners and the current staff are keeping things operating at a high level 10 years after opening the restaurant and one year after losing their acclaimed leader.

“The dream continues,” concludes the review.

North Fork Table & Inn is located at 57225 Main Road in Southold.